How to Make a Modular 3D Printed Hydroponic System

This Video is from the Youtube channel: “Hoocho”. 

Hoocho teaches you how to 3D print a Modular Vertical Hydroponic System

#hoocho #3dprinting #hydroponics

0:00 – Intro
0:12 – Things You’ll Need
1:37 – Filament to Use in Hydroponics
2:07 – Where to Get the STI 3D Print Files
2:40 – Discussion about 3D Print Files
4:03 – How to Slice 3D files for Printing
6:18 – Printing the Files
7:48 – Time Lapse Print
8:46 – Resulting Print & System Design Discussion
9:54 – Mounting System on Base Reserviour
11:34 – Connecting Pump & Running System

 

Peter Grant
 

  • Matthew Farrell says:

    Interesting, I nearly think I can fit all the pieces on my build plate all at once lol.

    I am keen to see how the grow goes when it does have plants, I have one similar using PVC pipe, but it uses an irrigation sprayer so the plants don’t get anywhere near that water level.

  • Innocent Bystander says:

    Great video. My son just bought one very similar, same design with a different name on front. First thing he made was the octopus…man, that thing still blows my mind how the tentacles were made. Then he made a spool retainer lock thing…looks like he’s making a strawberry tower now…chuckles sneakily.

  • Earyx says:

    Really cool video and I like your character haha I have a question how long into the central tube do the planters go?
    They looked really short and I was wondering if the cascade of water even touches them!

  • ndfvbaihgi dfgeagniaj says:

    Great video! I will make two sets of towers but for fogponics; 1) a smaller diameter tower for smaller root systems (spinach, spices…) and 2) a bigger diameter tower for bigger root systems (bok choy, asparagus, bell peppers…). The one you link to has an inner diameter of 107 mm. I was thinking I could go with 65 mm and 130 mm respectively but haven’t found any good info on diameter vs. root size.

  • Derek Gore says:

    Hoocho, great introductory explanation regarding 3D printers. Keep the informative vids coming.

  • Cynthia Erskine says:

    That looks awesome, be interested to see how it goes when the plants are getting towards full size and a bit weighty. Fun stuff!

  • Barricuba says:

    Great video! This was my next plan for the summer. Was thinking of another design from Youtube but i like this one better. I will unpack my ender today and set it all up!
    Looking forward to more videos around this. Try making a bigger tower next! =)

  • Richard Parker says:

    I have had this for several years. Original design is on Thingiverse with lots of mods. It is ok for small plants like lettuce, Batchoy, etc. does have some issue with algae growing at the top and clogging the holes. water splashing out of the holes where the plant goes, Net pots falling out when the plant gets bigger (I glued a retainer on the sides to help clip in the pot. ). Because light goes right through the plastic Algae can grow in the entire structure. Good idea but needs a bit more refinement IMO . I made mine with PETG so they will last for years . PLA will probably last a few years.

  • Chris Balint says:

    Just a quick comment on 3D printing multiple items at the same time, don’t do it. It takes more time to print multiple items because of the travel time between each part and depending on size it can add 15-20% more time than just printing the same amount of parts one at a time.

  • Ryan O says:

    3D printer slicing software has a setting to change how many layers are printed on the perimeter. This determines outer wall thickness. By default 2 layers is typical. This is fine for the strength needed, but will allow a lot of light through. I suggest increasing the perimeter layers to 4. This cuts out heaps of the light. Do a trial on a couple of parts and hold a torch behind it and you will see what I mean.

  • Simon - says:

    You could also use rock wool as a substrate for your plants

  • James Kelly says:

    Got my 3d printer yesterday. Can’t wait to set it up. Tweek it. Practice printing. This is first on my list to do when i feel like I’ve learned enough to print this correct.

  • Michael Vink says:

    Awesome stuff! I do have a two concerns though: PLA might be called ‘food safe’, but the pigments in most brands certainly are not. Also, keep in mind that PLA (basically a compound made from lactic acid) will leech some of the lasctic acid into the system over time. The second concern I have is with the technique of 3D printing itself. All things printed with an FDM printer have layer lines, small grooves, in the final product. This would be a perfect place for bacteria to grow over time, making things less than desirable. PETG would be a good medium to counter the first problem (as it’s besically the same material plastic bottles for soda are made from) but the second issue remains. I would opt for a treatment in a food safe coating to smooth everything out and properly seal everything before putting it to long-term use.

    • Glenn Watson says:

      Michael, since it is modular couldn’t you simply disassemble and clean it between growing cycles to eliminate the bacteria problem? I am thinking of making this and I appreciate your concerns, and I agree PETG is the way to go for material. So wouldn’t a regular washing (throw it in the dishwasher every 3 months or so) alleviate this issue?

    • Michael Vink says:

      @Glenn Watson yeah, for cleaning you could do that, just clean it regularly (that goes for PETG as weel, by the way). But that doesn’t solve the issue of unwanted chemicals leeching from PLA. PETG would be a lot better choice.

    • LordKory says:

      Even PETG isn’t foof safe because of all the microgaps that can harbor bacteria, 3D printed parts are impossible to sterilize. But I was thinking why not just inoculate the 3d printed parts in the hydroponic system with beneficial bacteria? Realistically they should take up all the room that might be used by harmful bacteria plus you get the benefits of helpful bacteria.

    • Michael Morrison says:

      @LordKory Can one sand or coat the finished product to fill in any micro gaps?

    • BadumTsss says:

      @Michael Morrison yes

  • Dustin Meier says:

    FYI, to print full size, set the bed area to 230 mm x 230 mm. The default 220 x 220 settings that leave a buffer won’t allow the 3 way component to slice.

  • Ryan Miller says:

    Omg I just did this, obviously you did it first, but my design is very similar but very compact (meant for propagation of Venus fly traps, bonsai, and the wife’s house plants)
    My segments are 60mm tall with 6, 30mm slots,for cuttings. The column is about 53mm diameter.
    I freaking love 3-D printing and by mistake spent the last five years or so using or struggling rather with sketchup in the last month or so I discovered fusion 360 and OMG it’s friggin awesome lol!

  • Brad L says:

    The 2″ x 2″ netcups do not hardly get into the water flow. They are not deep enough. There are 2″ x 2.75″ net cups that are a bit better, but that’s why the printed net cup is about 6″ and the plant get bathed in nutrients.

  • Artem Burlaka says:

    I have a part that was printed of PLA 8 years ago and this part is outside 24/7 under the influence of sun, wind, frost and it is completely fine

  • Jonathan Silva says:

    Hello! So I’ve currently got the first part of the modular hydroponic system printed out and have come across a concern. The lid has been printed out with 3 layers for the walls but it seems as if water is seeping in between the layers. Will this cause a problem during the overall use of the system or should I line it with something like epoxy resin?

  • JJuansthat3Dguy says:

    GREAT VIDEO !Im about to design my own! I will also be making a video and this video helped thanks Hoocho!

  • Julius says:

    Hey Hoocho, why don’t you use tower gardens at all in your setup? Or did I miss your growing timelapse video?
    Thumbs up. Great channel.

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