Build Your Own Affordable Hydroponic Grow Tower (Under $50) | Aeroponics | Vertical Garden

Healing Hobbies says:

This tower is made from six 2-gallon buckets.
Each layer has the capacity to accommodate 4-8 plants per bucket with a growing cell size of 2 inches that fits perfectly with a pool noodle.
The structure is supported vertically by a 3/4″ pex pipe. I made a tiny holes around the pipe to create sprinkler like or pattern on each layer of the bucket using a 1/16 drill bit to ensure an even distribution of water to each growing cell/hole. There are 6 in total vertically, so each bucket has it’s own individual sprinkler like pattern or mist.
The pump can raise water up to 10 feet in height, and the reservoir is a 5-gallon bucket

Nutrient Solution
10g Masterblend Tomato formula (NPK)
10g Calcium Nitrate (CN)
5g Epsom Salt (Magnesium Sulfate)
5 gallons water

Benjamin Fairhall says:

Tradie’s tip: run the hole saw backwards for the final cut to stop the plastic from getting stuck inside the hole saw.

Christopher sexton sr says:

I dig this build. There are some suggestions I have from other builds. When you go to cut the holes in the side of your buckets try cutting a slit about 2″-3″ long and at each level stagger where you place the cuts. Then heat the slits using a heat gun and use a 2″ pipe with an angle cut at one end to push into the the slits while they’re hot, Angle the pipe out at about 45% to the wall of the bucket. Also, burry the reservoir at the bottom. You may want to either paint the buckets or use more of the insulation on each level of the buckets. Add a hole with a cap above the reservoir. Put in a filter at the pump. Here’s why I suggest this.

1. Staggering where the holes are placed will naturally redirect the water flow from each slit inside bucket to the next slit down.
2. staggering the slits allow for more light to reach each level of produce, so you can grow leafy greens and have more space you can utilize.
3. cutting a slit and creating an angled hole allows the plants to sprout in a more normal direction and is less stressful for the plants.
4. angled slits are easier to transplant into and you can use less of the funnoodle in making the pods.
5. you’ll be able to use the first sprayer method rather than tapping the pressure line in the middle at each level, the water will naturally follow the wall of the bucket instead. and the roots will have more contact.
6. Burying the reservoir at the bottom will cool the water, which in turn keeps the buckets at a cooler temperature so they won’t deform, and you get less sapping of the plastic into the water/nutrients
7. Using paint or more of the insulation will cause there to be less light in the buckets, this reduces root rot, fungus, and other diseases.
8. You’ll often get debris in the tank, filtering at the pump with a broad filter base will remove the damage debris can cause to your pump. Debris is inevitable, but with a little effort you can maintain the equipment better.
9. The hole with a cap like a 2″ pipe at the top or above your reservoir will allow you to easily refill the reservoir and allow less debris, critters and contaminants into the reservoir. This protects the plants and the pump while allowing easy refill access and measuring for your water level.

These simple changes will help the build be more efficient, easier to use, help maintain the equipment, and just all around provide a better experience. Either way, I really like your build for the cost effectiveness, better space utilization and as an easy step into getting into hydroponics. I have more suggestions, but I think I’ve added my 2 cents for now. =)