A High-Density Food Forest on 30 inch Beds!
This Video is from the Youtube channel: “Off-Grid with Curtis Stone”.
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About Curtis Stone:
Curtis is one of the world’s most highly sought-after small farming educators. His book, The Urban Farmer, offers a new way to think about farming𑁋 one where quality of life and profitability coexist. Today, Curtis spends most of his time building his 40-acre off-grid homestead in British Columbia. He leverages his relationships with other experts to bring diverse content into the homes of gardeners and aspiring small farmers from around the world. Learn more at FromTheField.TV.
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Getting to work !
Looking forward to seeing how this progresses !
Nice, need some Curtis gravy
That is encouragement to push the intensity of our plantings. Thanks, Curtis!
Interesting. I had just learned, from an Australian, about syntrophic design but in the context of garden planting. Had not thought of it in Food forest design because natural transition is part of food forest design and therefore the syntrophic design is built in. I suppose though that if you are manipulating things by removing certain species, it may be different. Or is it just a twist on a common design concept? I guess it would depend on what your food forest design is. I designed mine to replicate the various layers of a forest complete with annuals, perennial flowers, perennial vegetables, fruiting shrubs, trees, etc. and in doing so, the thought is that each will benefit from the others. I noticed that your design appears to be very woody biomass (carbon) heavy. I would be interested to see what one of those rows you planted would do if left to natural transition devises rather than the manual labor involved in your proposed maintenance design. I have my suspicions. None the less, interesting. A lot of work too!! Looks good though. Thanks for sharing.
Nice! I’ve started my Takota Coen syntropic food forest too, 3 3/4 rows. Mine are 4ft wide with comfrey and Jerusalem artichokes on the edges. I’m also pruning all my trees ala grow a small fruit tree. I only have fruit and nut trees for my main trees. Planning on growing out my own nitrogen fixers this and next summer.
This video expanded the scope of my planning/thinking.
Very interesting .. great ideas .. thanks for sharing! Great to hear from you Curtis!! 🙂
Love this. If it were me, i’d plant clover everywhere bare dirt is exposed.
Curtis nice the S1 trees usually means they are self-pollinating 👍 Looks Great
Looks like a brilliant design! Mowing/Chop&Drop pruning promotes growth hormones which boosts plant vigor. So always do large amounts on the same day, when possible. Thanks for sharing, very inspiring, especially in your Zone!
Those are very beautiful steps / terraces.
You’re bound to have a beautiful peaceful food production forest there. Well thought out. Lately I’ve been learning about comfrey teas.
Thanks for the video, Curtis! I still use your old videos and book while I build my farm business. Really enjoy your new stuff too
Cool info! Thanks.
The honey locust tree is an interesting choice. Honey locust thorns are brutal and we have lots around here in NW Arkansas.
I don’t know that they run like black locust but I have more to get rid of than I am able.
Nice work Curtis.
Great planning; thanks for sharing! If your Carragana trees are like the prairie ones, don’t eat the seed pods until you research them. They have a pea-like pod. Where I grew up in central Alberta, they are quite invasive & were used for wind breaks. Blessings to all 🤗🇨🇦
Kicking arse man!
Can’t wait to see how it progresses. My prediction rough and dirty is 30% – 50% mortality over the next few years from voles and winter kill, and slow establishment on the remainder with limited fruiting due to early and late frosts on the larger fruit trees. Very cool to get to follow progress on trials like this!
Hey chap 👍
Logical metric for the win 😁
Fantastic. We need many more such systems in the ground to test these ideas and the species for our winter climate. I have been seeing the rhyzomatous species like poplar are not so quick to disappear and require ongoing maintenance because we don’t want a closed canopy but rather an edge (which poplar like).